Tutorial: Windows in Grp. Bodies

Neckcheese Tutorial: Mounting windows in Grp. Bodies 

This is my way of mounting windows in a grp body. Others may do it in other ways, but feel free to use the tips if you want to - happy modelling - and take care !!
On the body shown I use 0,3-0,4 mm thin, clear polyethylene sheet, but the same principles applies to vac formed windows. 

CAUTION: take care testing the techniques below on an old body or similar material before using them on a new, expensive body.
The tools used are not for kids and can cause serious damage - and good ventilation is need when working with contact and super glues.

Tools used for grinding out openings for windows, wheel arches etc.
The small milling tools is used to cut the windows out as close as possible to the frame (carefully) and the bigger tools are used  later. The big sanding drum is used for the wheel arches and underside  of the car.
On the other hand, the more you remove with milling and sanding tools, the less work you have with files etc.

The black colour makes it easier to see where to remove material.
I use scouring powder and an old toothbrush (or the wife's) for cleaning off dust and residues and repeats the process with ammonia window cleaner to remove any grease from mould and fingerprints.

CAUTION !!!!  - remove only small bits at a time and practice with the milling tool before using it on a nice, expensive body. The milling tools has a tendency to "wander off" so its very easy to remove more than intended if not careful !!

The dust from resin and grp are harmful so use an effective mask every time you are working in these materials. Also use protective glasses to take care of your eyes.

I use a vaccuum cleaner and held the mouth piece of the tube between my legs when working. This removes most of the dust and leaves your work place mush cleaner.

The finishing job is done with fine files (and extra glasses). The scalpel is also used to clean corners etc. Be careful !!!!

I often take a break and seal the edges around the area that is being worked on area with super glue to strengthen it, especially around the small side windows and other spots where the material is thin. Wipe out excessive glue immediately and let it dry before proceeding (coffee break).

The inside surroundings (marked black) has to be smoothed out to allow a tight fit of the windows. I use sanding drums, round headed milling tools, sand paper and files to do the job, but be very carefull as there are not much material around the windows.

Here the inside is smooth and ready for installing windows. The light spots is where material is sanded of.

Ready for cleaning and priming

After priming, painting, decalling and clear coating, the body is ready for installing windows.  

I cut a piece of thin paper a little larger than the windows opening and held it with my fingers from the inside

The paper is held with no gaps between it and the widow frame

I use a very thin fine liner or drawing pen and make a line as close to the window frame as possible

Here is the template for the front widows with the fine liner used for drawing

Now I draw a second line 1,5-2 mm outside the line. 

The rear and side widows gets the same treatment

The finished templates for the car and type of material usefull for making the actual windows. Thickness 0,3-0,4 mm

I place the templates below the thin clear sheet and use a thin waterproof liner to transfer the outside line to the plastic sheet

Weight for all 4 window sheets just below 1 gr.

Next step is gluing the windows in the car

There are several types of glue that can be used for mounting the windows:
Different  clear contact glues and clear water based white glue (cockpit glue). 
The white glue dries up clear.

These glues are safe to use as long as you keep the glue away from the window area and only keep it at the edges where it is not seen from the outside. White glue clean up with water if an accident occur white contact glue is not removable and a replacement window has to be made in case of accidents. 

I have ADHD and am generally not a very patient man, so I use super glue which dries up instantly, but leaves not room for error, so the window has the be placed correct at the first attempt.

CAUTION: when drying, toxic fumes evaporate from the super glue (as well as contact glue), so your work place need sufficient ventilation !!
ALSO the fumes from fresh super glue damages the clear plastic, leaving a white layer which is not removable.

But there is a way around the damaging effect: make a "tray" out of the glue part of a 3M post-it note and make small sea of super glue.
Stirr it once a white with a small stick and after a couple of minutes, the glue is ready to use without problems, as the harmful (to the plastic) fumes have evaporated (you still need ventilation for your own safety !!!

I use super glue in the sequences below, but you can use clear contact glue or white glue in the same manner.
To held the windows in place, use small pieces of masking tape. 

I held the window firmly to the window frame with my fingers and spot glue the windows in place. When the glue is dry, I add glue all around the edge using super glue or white glue. 

All windows are mounted and hopefully without too many finger prints on them :-)

Body is ready for interior

Niels Elmholt, July 2015